Posted on June 30 2015
Great design develops through dedicated practice, experience and moderation. To a practiced hand, the language is second nature.
"In this photo the warp yarn is the natural color running up and down and the weft is "melon" left to right"[/caption] Woven fabrics originate from a Warp (the vertical yarns), and a Weft (horizontal yarns). Constructions are fabricated by interlacing yarns to create varying effects and weights. There are three weaves upon which all woven fabric designs are based:
- Plain Weave fabrics such as percale and muslin and are the flat weaves, with alternating yarns interlacing over and under.
- Twill Weaves are most notably recognized for their slanted lines. This is seen in herringbones, denims and gabardines.
- Satin Weave brings the yarns of either warp or weft to the surface. The yarns float over longer distances giving a smooth and sometimes shiny surface. These fabrics are satins and sateen. The key of the satin is the full cover of face and back. Look closely at our checkmate pattern, 3/4 of the yarns raise to the surface and 3/4 of the yarns go to the back, which gives the alternating boxes look.
Fancy weaves can also be used to raise the surface of a fabric such as velvet. Jacquard looms give possibility for large-scale and varied effects. Weaves that are interesting, textural and functional include Leno and Honeycomb weaves.
With all of these known weaves, how can a designer show an original and innovative hand?
Develop a Signature Style
Though it is important to know the collective opinion of our industry, we rely on our artisan’s hand and seasoned intuition. Years of practice, a keen eye, and steadfast devotion to using the appropriate amount of design work results in a collection that has immediate place and a recognizable personal signature.
A designer has to find a way to be unique in using a known foundation of constructions. In order for the hand of the weaver to show, there has to be innovative implementation of detail when designing. Simplicity can speak loudly.
Know Your Materials
Knowing your materials and how they perform is the best advantage a designer can have. The choice of unusual yarns adds character. Understanding how to lay those yarns side by side to give delicious drape (perfect example is the wool ombre throw pictured below) is a learned skill. Knowing that one color in a weave can be more powerful than mixing every color together is an art.
Our 100% Linen Leno Throw and Leno Chevron blanket illustrate the effect of a moderate amount of texture making a bold statement. Our designer gives equal voice to the natural properties of the Linen fiber and texture of Leno weave.
The color and weave effect at the corners of our Cotton/Alpaca Houndstooth Dayblanket creates a special highlight.
NEW, our Organic Cotton Bedford Cord: texture and soft comfort, simply matched. Let the hand of the weaver shine. Attention to flawless manufacturing is the unseen tailoring of these design masterpieces!