It’s finally summer here in Maine. We’ve had a few days of rainy weather, but today we have blue skies, bright sun, and a warm breeze rich with the scent of the roses in our garden. From our front porch, I can see the Kennebec River flowing sluggishly through town.
The change in weather has driven me to change all the bedding in my freshly-painted bedroom. Gone is my merino lambswool blanket; out comes the crisp cotton and lighter blankets.  White Starry Nights Blanket To me, nothing quite says summer like a bright white blanket. There’s just something about the way the white gleams in the sunlight and makes you feel cool even in Maine’s humid heat. White blankets can make any room feel like a beach house retreat or a cottage by the lake.
 - White Chevron Blanket
Here at Brahms Mount, we make five unique blankets in pure white cotton, and each one is a wonderful treat, no matter what the season. All of our cotton blankets are made from cotton grown in North America. Our white cotton is dyed using the least environmentally damaging whitener for natural fibers.
 White Rib Blanket Whether you’re looking for something casual or something with a touch of elegance, chances are there’s a white cotton blanket for you.If you like a touch of color in your blanket, check out our colored Herringbone blankets on a white background. We’ve introduced three new fun colors this summer: Oyster, Almond, and Misty Blue!
 Herringbone Blanket White/Oyster
The history of textile mills in America seems an unlikely topic of national interest, but within their history you can find the cornerstone of our Industrial Revolution.
The mechanization of labor was not an option for textile weaving until shuttle looms were introduced in England, transforming one of the country’s main exports and changing the relationship between man and machine forever. The shuttle loom’s design was a lucrative secret which England maintained under threat of treason. However, a brilliant rebel by the name of Samuel Slater took a chance and became America’s “Father of the Industrial Revolution.”
Looms
In the 1700’s, both England and America were reliant on manual labor or draft animals to support their cottage industries. Weaving was done on hand looms. In 1733, Englishman John Kay invented the flying shuttle, allowing more fabric to be produced in less time. Over the years, England continued to dominate the world’s industry in textiles. As looms ran faster, spinning technology had to keep up. Still, it wasn’t until 1785, when Edmund Cartwright patented the first successful power loom that England’s textile industry truly blossomed.
 a flying shuttle (I)
If you look at the word “manufacture,” you can see that it comes to English from the Latin words manu and factus, more or less meaning “made with the hands.” From ancient times to 1785, manufactured goods were, in fact, made by hand. With the introduction of mechanized looms, the relationship between man and machine was radically changed.
The steam-powered engine was invented in 1712, but it was only used in mining and was not considered a viable option in manufacturing prior to Cartwright’s invention. His steam loom was one of the first manufacturing devices to use a mechanical process. After years of refinement, the resulting shuttle loom produced a more durable fabric within a fraction of the time, making England the leading source of quality textiles.
From England to America
England’s technological advances gave her an advantage over the nascent weaving industry in America. English law protected the secret and made it a crime to carry loom designs out of the country. In 1789, Samuel Slater emigrated to the United States, bringing in his head knowledge of the design and use of power looms. He sold his knowledge and skills to Moses Brown, and America’s first water-powered textile factory in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, was in operation by December of that same year. With the invention of the cotton gin 1793 by Eli Whitney, America’s cotton textile industry took off. The cotton gin is a device which separates the cotton seed from the cotton fiber, a task which previously had been slow and labor-intensive.
 Eli Whitney's cotton gin  cotton ready to harvest The production of textiles continued to be an important part of the US economy into the 1980s. In 1965, 95% of all American apparel and bedding was produced by textile companies in America. By 1995, American manufactured textiles accounted for less than 2 percent. With the rise of globalization and low-cost imports, more and more textile factories have moved to foreign countries. Today, there are very few American textile mills. Brahms Mount is proud to be one of them. We continue to weave our blankets, throws, and towels here in Maine, on shuttle looms from the 1940’s. Many of our materials come from America, as well – our cotton is grown, spun, and dyed in the USA. We’re thrilled to continue the tradition of American produced textiles.
Name: John C. Smith
Working Since: 1998
Off Hours: Playing guitar, spending time with family, watching movies, and playing with three-year-old son Bodhi
Quote: “Light Sabers are way better than Tasers.”
One of the coolest coworkers I’ve ever worked with is Brahms Mount’s master weaver John Smith (the dreaded John Smith!). John oversees our four antique shuttle looms, and with three going at once, there is a lot to look after. Being one of only a handful in the country capable of operating a shuttle loom, he is pretty relaxed about it, and enjoys it thoroughly. “I love the meditative quality of weaving,” he said. When more than one loom is running, the complex rhythms stimulate his musical mind. He is also proud to support his family in a job with minimal environmental impact. When I asked why he originally applied for a job at the mill, he answered “hunger and rent.” Hmm. A lot can change in twelve years.
 "Dressing the Loom" After a warp is created (more on that when I showcase Arthur), John will set up the loom for the appropriate pattern and gear. Each yarn has to be threaded through the correct heddle (a very long needle with the eye in the middle), and threaded again through the reed (the small teeth that guide the warp). With over a thousand yarns in each warp, attention to detail is key. John will make any adjustments needed before launching the shuttle loom.
Antiquated machinery may produce an incredible product, but there are a number of challenges to maintaining the looms. Some spare parts are stored for replacement. For other troubleshooting, John actually “loves finding creative solutions to parts that no longer exist.” With no manual, and no expert on 1940’s shuttle looms found in the phonebook, John will study a part until he understands its unique function…in other words, he learns as he goes.
Besides the looms, John has to be well accustomed to the fibers themselves. Unlike modern versions, shuttle looms provide a finished edge to the fabric, which must be consistent or the blanket will be compromised. The same goes for yarn quality. Any flaw could ruin an entire roll of fabric. A lot is dependent on John’s abilities. Lucky for us and our customers, John is a top-notch weaver and loves his job.
 Shown: Natural/Red Stripe Head Towel When I need an hour relaxation, I’ll pull out the bubbles and a good book, fill up my claw foot tub with near boiling water and soak. Stepping out of the bath and into my oversized Linen Body Towel is such a complimentary finale, a little extra luxury before I have to open the bathroom door, clear the mist and go back to the daily grind. In a few hours, my towel will be dry, too. No more soggy towels on the bathroom hook!
Brahms Mount 100% Linen Towels are absorbing machines — the most durable towels on the market. While cotton and bamboo towels fray, pill, remain damp for hours and stain easily, Linen does not. It is easy to clean and gets softer with every wash.
Linen’s number of incredible properties only increase when wet. It soaks up more moisture than other fibers, is actually stronger and more durable when wet, and dries quickly. Dollar bills are made with 25% Linen for these reasons, which is why your George Washington doesn’t shred in the wash (like that important business card with the unlisted number).
Steamy bubble baths aside, I’m usually a person who gets a kick out of practicality. I’m drawn to anything with multiple functions, incredible durability, and easy maintenance. I have several Linen Hand Towels that have been put through the ringer and look just as beautiful as my bath towels. Dishes, camping, dog cleaning — you name it — and they only get softer with each use.
I can go on for hours about my love of Linen (and I have, too), but it’s an experience worth trying yourself. Brahms Mount offers three towel sizes, in six different colors, so I’m sure you can find the right one.
 Click to visit our Towel site LINEN TOWELS (FROM TOP TO BOTTOM):
NATURAL/CHOCOLATE
PEARL/CHOCOLATE
PEARL/BLUE
NATURAL
NATURAL/RED
PEARL/NATURAL
 - Click to order Body Towels
 - Click to order Head Towels
 - Click to order Hand Towels
 - Click to order Towel Sets
WHAT IS DEW-RETTED FLAX?
 Photo by Noel Mount The Joybilee Farm in British Columbia is a great source for naturally dyed fibers if you hand weave at home. They are also a wealth of knowledge from fiber facts to DIY growing, harvesting and dying. I happily found their site while trying to find a decent article on the dew-retting process of flax. As you should know, flax is the plant from which Linen is woven. The Linen we choose for our blankets and throws is dew-retted, and Rob and Chris of Jubilee Farm had a great post on the process. Links to their site and blog are below, as well as some helpful definitions. Thanks Rob and Chris!
“October 10, 2009 – Some of my readers have asked for directions on dew retting flax. I asked Randy Cowan of Biolin Research and Crop Fibers Canada in Saskatchewan if he would write a short article for us on the procedure.
“Here’s what Randy said:
“‘When harvesting flax straw for fiber production, the flax straw is pulled out of the ground, including the roots, and laid on the ground in a thin even layer with the stems aligned. Consistent stem diameter and a thin layer will ensure even retting. When the stems are retted on one side the straw must be turned over to ret on the other side. After a heavy rain, turn the flax to ensure an even ret and to stop rotting on the ground side.
‘Dew retting is simple exposure of the straw to the weather for 2–3 weeks… until the dew and rains have removed the waxes and resins, making the fiber loose from the stalk. In the dew retting process, the pectin and lignin are dissolved by the interaction of molds, warm air and moisture. The stems will turn a silvery grey color when retting is completed.
‘To tell if the stems are retted dry a few stems. Grab the straw and break a section, retting is complete if the fiber does not stick to the woody core. Once the straw has been fully retted, dry the stems before decorticating.’”
Joybilee Farm Website: www.fiberarts.ca (You can find order and contact information on their site, as well as links to their blog and other fiber-based sites.)
Retting—v. to moisten or soak in order to soften and separate the fibers by partial rotting
Pectin—n. any of a group of carbohydrate substances found in the cell walls of plants; removing pectin will soften the fiber
Lignin—n. an organic substance that, with cellulose, forms the chief part of woody tissue; in flax, this is part of the outer shell
Decorticating—v. removing the bark, husk or outer covering
“I have a throw from 25 years ago…what you made 25 years ago has held up wonderfully and we love the throw…we absolutely love your workmanship.”
Sandra from Alabama
Our crew is an amazing collection of creative, quirky, and downright lovable people. I will be able to showcase every one of my coworkers in due time, but let’s start appropriately at the beginning, in Claudia Brahms’ head.
 Claudia Brahms Name: Claudia Brahms
Position: Co-founder, Creative Designer
Working Since: the very beginning!
Off Hours: Creating fantastic monoprints, adventurous hiking with Noel throughout Maine, having a healthy silly side to her humor that is currently distracting me from writing this!!
Quote: “I think creativity is a language we all speak. I want to bring that to everyone with my designing.”
Claudia was born and raised in the heart of the fashion world — New York City. After graduating from both the Fashion Institute of Technology and Philadelphia’s College of Textiles and Science, (where she received her BS in Textile Design with Honors), she jumped head first into design work.
Claudia has always been bold in her career choices. Despite a highly competitive market, she returned to NYC as soon as she graduated, freelancing her services to design and weave fabric for interior designers. Perhaps her boldest move was packing all her belongings and moving to Maine to work as a design trainee. Claudia recalls, “I was able to experience life right inside a textile mill, working on the factory floor and designing new fabrics and yarns. It was a wonderful opportunity, further blessed by meeting my husband to be.” Claudia, of course, is referring to Noel Mount, husband and business partner. Together, they founded Brahms Mount and have happily worked side by side for over twenty-six years. Even when they sold the business to David Kaufman in April 2009, they both stayed on board to do what they do best: create beautiful textiles.
Beautiful textiles have been Claudia’s lifeblood from the beginning. “My greatest influence has been my mother and father.” Her mom and dad were respectively a fashion designer and an interior designer. Growing up in such an environment, “it was impossible not to have wide eyes.”
Wide eyes might be the key to her success in textile design. Brahms Mount blankets and throws are known for their beauty and quality that can only be achieved when one is skilled in creating something complex and make it look so simple. Claudia better elaborates: “My attraction for the feel and look of simply woven fabrics in natural fibers has led me to develop a recognizable and tailored style. While I am drawn to bold colors, my true love is for the lasting character of beautifully tailored and comfortable fabrics.”
Too true!
“I have several of your blankets and love them. They wear so well and make me feel so good in every season!! ”
Maude from Mississippi
 Alpaca Day Blanket “I love alpaca and I have replaced all wool sweaters with alpaca for sweaters. However, the American public, in general, is not too aware of alpaca. Being Mexican I am well aware of that miracle fabric that is alpaca. I truly hope that you will give alpaca a starring role in future production as it is such a lovely and wonderful fiber. However, it is not well known to the average consumer, but then I doubt that your company’s consumers are average. I love to buy alpaca for my mom and sister when I can find it well made.
 Linen Blanket
“Linen is my other ‘must have fabric’ and I bought some of the linen day blankets, as well as the linen towels, and a blanket for my family in Mexico from Brahms Mount. My linen blanket is still beautiful after the many years that I have had it and that is because Brahms Mount took the time to properly finished the blanket, check for imperfections and offer the best possible product.”
Manuel from Oklahoma
FELLOW ALPACA LOVER? SEE BELOW!
 Juliette from Maine's 2002 Common Ground Fair For thousands of years, Alpaca has been a source for fiber in South America. They were first domesticated by tribes in the Andean highlands, most notably the Amerindians of Peru, and were a central component to the culture.
After the Spanish conquest, Alpaca was introduced to Europe, but no one was able to successfully spin it into a workable fiber. It wasn’t until 1836, when an English mill used a cotton warp with an Alpaca weft to create a plain weave cloth, that Europe found Alpaca’s true potential.
Since then, Alpaca wool has been in high demand. Breeders can be found in the UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the US. The demand continues to grow as more people become aware of its benefits, both in its breeding and in its finished goods.
Alpaca farms have very little impact on the environment, and the animals are treated well (a coworker visited one of the farms we sourced our Alpaca from and noticed curtains in their stall windows!).
As for the fiber itself, it is best known for its softness. Alpaca is a longer fiber than conventional wool and so the finished fabric has a smooth and glossy hand. Its supreme warmth is attributed to microscopic airbags in its central core that trap cold air. When wet, its thermal properties only increase. Just as amazing, it is a hypoallergenic wool since it contains no lanolin, the greasy substance that can cause reactions.
 Herringbone Throw The best way to understand Alpaca is to try it yourself. We at Brahms Mount have been weaving Alpaca for years in many beautiful styles. Just as Europeans first wove Alpaca with a cotton warp, we carry on the tradition with both our Herringbone and Checker Throws.
 Checker Throw
However, our most popular Alpaca product is the Houndstooth Day Blanket, woven with 30% Merino (a standard practice for smoother weaving) and sized at 50” x 80.”
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